It’s Mardi Gras time, and you can still make a raging-good gumbo. Everybody needs a Louisiana mentor when giving gumbo a go. My New Orleans angel in a dirtied apron told me to pitch my first roux out in the back yard. It was that bad. This was precious counsel, and I refused to give up. With plenty of patience and practice, I’m trusting my 2013 attempt is going to please even the most superior of gumbo experts. I’ve hailed him before, and here’s a sure go, seafood gumbo from Chef John Besh.