Category Archives: Asian cooking

Apple Soup Sendoff

Farewells bring on mingled emotions. Some signal “goodbyes” and others “so longs,” with hopes to stay connected even over long distances.

When the time came to farewell Hungarian friends last week, I wished them well but the family was sad to leave and none of us wanted to overshadow the moment with the permanence of a goodbye. For my friend, Orsy, the thought of returning to Budapest brought on more anxiety than exhilaration.

I met Orsy and her husband along with their two young sons in 2016 when they arrived in New York with plans to spend about 15 months in the country for a work assignment. Even on its worst days, with flaws presenting themselves in many ways, America earned their admiration and respect. They made the most of an opportunity here as a home away from home for a short while.

Moving back to Hungary will reunite an extended family, but life in their native country promises challenging times, economically as well as socially. As a teacher herself, Orsy considers the job market unstable and the unrest of everyday Hungarians trying to prepare the next generation to be a concern, with her own children about to start elementary school. She’s not a worrier, but a practical realist.

There’s nothing posh or pretentious in her nature or her kitchen. She’s that neighbor who makes guests feel at home when the menu calls for little more than a cup of mulled wine shared around a crackling fire in her backyard. The fare is simple yet blissful. Flatbread pizzas, salads and soups are fitting remembrances of my Hungarian friends and with apple season near peak harvest in the Hudson Valley, Hungarian apple soup provides the perfect motivation to drop in on an orchard.

Minimized applesDon’t settle for any old apples to make this recipe. Fresh McIntosh fruit softens up nicely and during the weeks ahead, macs will be ready by the bushels across the Hudson Valley. (Find McIntosh, Fuji, Gala and Jonomacs ripe for picking now at Fishkill Farms.) The apple soup works well puréed or as a chunky stew. Try it in between, with a few pieces of apple offering a more structured consistency.

To sauté the apples, choose quality butter for best results. Orsy insists that European butter tastes far different than American butter. She didn’t say “better” but I’ll say it. It does taste different and better. Imported butters are available at local markets, but I found a small tub of Ronnybrook Salted European Style Butter at Glynwood’s Farm Store in Cold Spring. The butter’s taste and texture, high in butterfat with less moisture than big commercial brands, makes it a perfect fit for the Hungarian apple soup ingredient list. It’s inspired by Europe yet slow-churned in small batches right in the Hudson Valley. With local butter, Hudson Valley apples and a little dry white wine from anywhere, the ingredients will produce a tangy taste with a kick of spice for a sweet fruit soup. For a more savory soup, sauté apples with potatoes and carrots and blend smoothly.Minimized apple soup

Best wishes go with Orsy as she heads back to Budapest. Revisiting the Hudson Valley and the USA through her eyes helps me realize the good fortune to live easily in my own backyard, welcoming the splendor of simplicity.

Text and photos by Mary Ann Ebner

First published at The Highlands Current

Hungarian Apple Soup

Yield: 4 servings

6 medium apples

4 tablespoons salted butter

1 teaspoon cinnamon

½ cup sugar

1 clove

juice of 1 lemon

3 cups water

1 cup white wine

½ cup buttermilk

1 tablespoon flour

 

  1. Peel, core and dice apples. Cook apples with butter over medium heat 5 minutes, stirring until apples soften. Add clove, cinnamon, sugar, water and lemon juice. Simmer 5 minutes.
  2. Mix in wine, water and buttermilk. Whisk in flour, bring to a low bowl and cook 5 to 10 minutes to reduce wine. Remove from heat. Remove clove. For creamy texture, pulse mixture in blender 2 minutes. For a chunkier apple soup, cool and serve at room temperature.
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Korean hot pepper paste kicks up sauce

Street food in South Korea gives the study of culture through cuisine an intense reception. A deep red hot pepper paste, gochujang, serves as the fiery base of Korean specialties and the essential ingredient stocked throughout Korean kitchens may surprise the most daring global diners with a lesson in heat.

Gochujang hot pepper pasteGochujang adds sweet and spicy flavor to traditional Korean recipes and as Cold Spring’s Clayton Smith explores the land and language, he’s acquiring street food vocabulary and a love for fermented hot sauce.

Clayton is finishing up his junior year at SUNY Geneseo. He’s immersed not only in academics on a study abroad semester, but sampling Korean staples as any student might—from a stream of food trucks and snack carts along bustling South Korean streets.

While receiving exchange credit for coursework at Sogang University, the communication-digital media/journalism major enjoys studying Seoul’s urban food scene.

“Korean cuisine is definitely a perk of being here,” Clayton says. “ There are a lot of great options to choose from, and I find myself eating out a lot because often times the food is quite cheap.”

Korean barbecue, where dining patrons cook meat servings on table-top grills, remains a favorite. Clayton has sampled pork barbecue and he’s experienced Korea’s culture in bulgogi, thinly sliced tender beef marinated in a sweet soy sauce. Classic foods of the country along with global street fare like Turkish kebabs keep up nourishment, but he often orders tteokbokki or ddukboki [dock-bo-kee].

Clayton describes tteokbokki as stir-fried rice cakes prepared in spicy sauce.

“It’s definitely the most popular street food here, and I really enjoy it,” he said. “I’ve heard it described as the ‘the Korean mac and cheese,’ which might be a way to describe the popularity of the dish, but it is hardly comparable. The rice cakes are in the form of thick noodles, making for a really chewy, unusual texture.”

Hearing Clayton’s description of the spicy tteokbokki, I set out to make it. I asked my friend Sung, who puts a gourmet spin on Korean home cooking, to recommend a Korean food market. She sent me to wander among aisles of fine products at Woo-Ri Mart in Northvale, N.J. Not only did I come away with suggestions from supermarket employees on preparing tteokbokki, I even picked up a prepared serving of Clayton’s #1 street food served up at Woo-Ri Mart’s food court. The portion was so generous that I split it with my husband who loves Korean cooking (he lived in Korea before we were married). With every bite, I could appreciate the heat that Clayton savors in ultra spicy meals.

“From what I’ve seen, there is not a choice of sauces. There is one sauce that the dish is cooked in and most would agree that it is very hot,” Clayton said, “although I personally enjoy it.”

I requested help in replicating the sauce from the encouraging merchants at Woo-Ri Mart who directed me to a supply of gochujang. Knowing that the customary 3 kilos would be more than enough to spice up my sauce, I settled for 1 pound of the hot pepper paste packaged in bright red tubs. As I searched for the cylindrical rice cakes, a staffer also directed me to a selection of fish cakes used in tteokbokki, and suggested dried anchovies to flavor the cooking broth for the rice cakes. I opted out of the super-sized box of tiny briny fish and substituted an anchovy-based sauce.Minimized Korean tteokbokki copy

Photo by Clayton Smith

The fishy addition helped cut the peppery pasty sauce and I served the tteokbokki with quail eggs, following Clayton’s recommendation. A cool egg calms a kick while spicy soaked rice cakes make tteokbokki a novel reprieve from typical American food snacks.

Clayton likes the hot flavor and chewy texture of the rice noodles because they’re so different from anything he’s ever eaten. Before returning to the Hudson Valley in July, he’ll take his curiosity and appetite to Thailand and Myanmar, but in the weeks ahead, he’ll practice his vocabulary ordering Korea’s best street food.

 

Tteokbokki

Serves 4

3 cups Korean rice cake sticks

3 cups water

1 tablespoon fish sauce

1/3 cup gochujang Korean hot pepper paste

½ teaspoon spicy hot pepper flakes

2 tablespoons sugar

1 pound fish cake strips

6 scallions, sliced

4 fresh quail eggs, hard-boiled

  1. In a shallow pan, heat half of the water and add rice cakes. Soak and simmer over low heat 10 minutes.
  2. In a small skillet, make a quick stock of remaining water and fish sauce. Boil and reduce to low heat. Add gochujang, hot pepper flakes and sugar. Mix well, bring to a boil and reduce to medium heat. Add drained rice cakes and fish cakes to sauce. Cook over low heat 5 minutes.
  3. Spoon mixture onto serving plate, top with scallions and serve with egg.

By Mary Ann Ebner, Cook On: 1 part chaos, 2 parts calm

 

Wrap and Roll

Puffy golden egg rolls may top plates at all-you-can-manage buffets or come with beef and broccoli servings to go, but when we rely only on these sources, we’re missing out on a joyous do-it-yourself meal.

Takeout offers convenience on busy days, but cooking Chinese food at home can bring on even more flavor. As the Chinese New Year approaches, falling on Jan. 28 this year, make room for a meal of Chinese cuisine or at the very least a Chinese-American recipe without ready-to-eat containers.

For the last few years, it’s been my good fortune to attend festive gatherings to welcome the holiday. The menu typically includes two to three versions of stir-fry, steamed and fried rice, dumplings, tofu with sesame, wontons and those crunchy yet tender treats known to some as spring rolls and to others as egg rolls.

Though contemporary fans of Chinese food may use the terms interchangeably, my Chinese cooking inspiration refers to her family’s carefully wrapped creations as spring rolls. No Chinese New Year feast would be complete without them as a favorite side that can easily stand in as the main attraction.minimized-make-your-own-spring-rolls-copy

Unraised sheets of dough wrap around a filling of chopped vegetables like cabbage, carrots, onions, celery and mushrooms while some variations include mung bean threads and pork or shrimp.

Tradition holds that spring rolls shared among family and friends trace their origin to the Chinese New Year to signify the renewal of springtime based on the lunar calendar. The term egg roll may be accurate for thicker wrappers made with egg, popularized by restaurants beyond the Chinese mainland during the last century. Other Asian cuisines claim their own varieties, and whether you call them egg rolls or spring rolls or shape them more squarely than roundly, those who pause to argue about names or misnomers could turn to find the platter empty.

Fresh spring-roll skins prepared with flour, salt and water may taste best, but you’ll find me assembling spring rolls with wheat-based ready-made wrappers sold in packages of 20 to 25 pieces for around $2. Local markets stock super-thin wrappers that fry up lightly and crisply.

minimized-spring-roll-filling-copyWhen using even the best ingredients, this easy endeavor can flop without proper technique. For her fried spring rolls, my guide in all things Chinese raises the heat and stirs swiftly when cooking the filling. She generously fills the wrappers and recommends rolling them tightly not only to keep the filling in, but to keep the frying oil out. Though she teaches the study of Chinese language professionally, spending far more time in a classroom than a kitchen, she’s very much at home sharing the joy of spring roll preparation and appreciation.

Find a little happiness in the new moon with this simple recipe. Serve with citrus sauce or plum preserves.

Spring Rolls

Yield: about 20 spring rolls

1 pound ground pork
8 to 10 stalks scallions, chopped
1 medium-sized cabbage, shredded into small strips
1 cup shredded carrots
2 cups mung bean vermicelli (rinsed, uncooked and cut with kitchen scissors into small pieces)
salt and fresh ground black pepper
1 package 25-count spring roll wrappers (skins, shells)
canola or vegetable oil
1 to 2 beaten eggs for sealing wrappers

  1. Brown pork with scallions over medium heat. Add cabbage strips, stir and cook on high heat to warm through completely. Lower heat to medium, stir in carrots and cook additional 2 minutes. Add mung bean vermicelli and cook 1 to 2 minutes. Season with 1 half teaspoon salt and a few twists of pepper. Drain any excess liquid to minimize moisture. Cool cabbage mixture completely to prevent wrappers from breaking while filling.
  2. To fill and shape rolls, lay a small stack of skins on a work surface with one corner of the skin pointing to you. Spoon a thick row of filling across the base of top skin, below its center. Fold bottom corner up and over filling, hold firmly and fold over left and right corners to opposite sides in envelope style. Complete rolling and brush the final corner with egg. Fold corner over to seal.
  3. To fry, use a 12- to 14-inch pan that allows oil to cover bottom to a quarter inch. Bring oil to high temperature before adding spring rolls individually. Just as pan is full, turn the first one, and then one-by-one turn the others in the order they went into the oil. Once rolls have all been turned, remove them in the same order and place on a paper towel-lined plate to absorb excess oil, allowing space between each roll to preserve crispness. Serve whole or cut diagonally.

First published by The Highlands Current

Text and photos by Mary Ann Ebner

 

 

 

Chinese cooking: Bring on the high heat

When Chinese stir fry looks as good as it tastes, you’ve arrived. And when it comes to experts, let them take over your kitchen. Follow Dr. Martha’s easy steps to prepare Chinese stir fry.

Quick Cook

Quick Cook

1. Make it uniform: if you’re going to slice the beef, slice the onions. If you’re dicing the chicken, dice the peppers to match.

2. Fire it up: Use your high heat.

3. Stir and fry: Cook quickly, especially vegetables. Bright green broccoli makes a dish.

 

Falling slowly with pho

Have some pho

Have some pho

It’s easy to fall into a hurried pace, rushing through meals and caving in to the grab-and-go culture of eating on the run which adds up for all of us. I’m doubling up on soup efforts as the season begins to change. This pho recipe (a variation by C.V. along with the powerful story of her escape from Vietnam) turns out bowls of perfection to prompt even the most hurried among us to sit back and slurp slowly.

star anise
star anise

Keep basic ingredients and spices stocked to minimize shopping and kitchen prep. No star anise on hand? Pick up a few pods the next time you’re out and prepare for the slow slurp of pho.

Pho

2-3 pounds country style pork ribs

8-10 cups water (make sure pot is at least half full)

1 tablespoon salt

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon fish sauce

5-6 shallots

1 gingerroot

3 star anise

1 cinnamon stick (optional)

1 16-oz package Oriental style flat (pho) rice noodles

2 pounds beef sirloin, sliced paper thin

3 scallions, finely chopped

Fresh cilantro leaves

Fresh Thai basil leaves

Fresh bean sprouts

Lemon

Hoisin sauce (for dipping)

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place the pork ribs in the stockpot and cover with water. Cook as you prepare other ingredients. Keep an eye on the pot and skim impurities and fat with a large spoon during the cooking process. The marrow of the bone will start flavoring the broth, but you don’t want to see anything floating on the surface.

Peel the shallots and slice the gingerroot in half and place in oven for roasting, 30 minutes. Add salt, sugar and fish sauce to broth. Stir and skim surface.  Add star anise and cinnamon to broth. Add roasted shallots and gingerroot. Continue to stir and cook uncovered for two hours.

Remove pork from broth. Cool and cut meat away from bone. Set aside.

Prepare rice noodles in boiling water. While noodles are cooking, strain all solids from pho broth. Rinse cooked noodles in hot water.

Once the pho ingredients are ready, C.V. dishes them assembly-line style around her kitchen counter.

Recipe relaxed – make your own pho

Good take-out pho deserves praise, but after reviewing this recipe, you may want to make your own. My story about  C.V. LeCarrell follows her childhood escape from Vietnam to the heart of her home in a bowl of traditional steamy soup.

C.V.’s Pho Recipe

Dumplings on my doorstep

We’re guilty of polishing off heaping servings of potstickers and Chinese dumplings. Can you guess where these beautiful potstickers came from?

potstickers

potstickers

Neighbors, yes, and they were made from scratch (no pre-made wraps in their household) and delivered to our Austin doorstep. Beyond delicious!  If you want to create Chinese dumplings or potstickers, drop by Metrocurean with resident food temptress Amanda. She linked back this week to one of her earlier “Steal This” postings . . . a dumpling demo with Wolfgang Puck. D.C. friends . . . check out this site for great tastings in and around the city.

Thanks, neighbors!